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T-jet Chassis Cleaning Examples Page 2

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I then slide in the front axle and press on the hubs
in the same way that I did the back axle.
I test my chassis against the body I will mount
to it, to insure the axle is in the right location.
Again, make sure your axle is true by rolling it on a flat
surface. The top plate assembly is next
First, inspect the armature for damage and then check
it for continuity with an ohm meter.
Check out the Resistence Test for
full testing of a good armature.

On some armatures, I have found, the wire
connections to be badly worn. I fix this by
adding a splash of solder to the worn connection
to insure the wire will not break free.

Shown here I am soldering the armature connection
prolong it's life. I use a circuit board soldering iron
with a 700 degree tip. Use very little solder and do
not keep the soldering Iron tip on the connection
for very long or you can burn the fiberglass underneath
the contact. Next I file the excess solder off with a small flat file.
Try to file the solder bead flat and in parallel with
the armature contact.
This is done to allow the Armature to spin freely inside
the chassis. I check this out on a empty chassis and
spin the armature. The armature will spin for a long
time without making any noise if there is no
clearence problems.
If I hear a clicking sound or the armature does
not spin I file off a little more solder.

Now it's time to clean off the armature contact surface.
I use an ink pen eraser and rub it back and forth until
it has a shinny surface.
I do one surface section at a time. When I am finished, the armature looks like the one
shown here.

By now the top plate is full of eraser junk and dirt.
So, I use a soft camel-hair paint-brush to remove
all of that loose dirt. The brush must be soft enough
not to hurt the fragile armature wires.
It also allows you to get in between the armature
and the top plate. I clean off all the old oil from the top of the top plate
with a kleenex. The kleenex is thin enough to get
between the gears and the top plate ridge wall.
I then brush away lint with the camel-hair
paint-brush mentioned earler.


I then slide in the front axle and press on the hubs in the same way that I did the back axle. I test my chassis against the body I will mount to it, to insure the axle is in the right location. Again, make sure your axle is true by rolling it on a flat surface.	The top plate assembly is next First, inspect the armature for damage and then check it for continuity with an ohm meter. Check out the Resistence Test for full testing of a good armature.


Now it's time to clean off the armature contact surface. I use an ink pen eraser and rub it back and forth until it has a shinny surface. I do one surface section at a time.	When I am finished, the armature looks like the one shown here.


By now the top plate is full of eraser junk and dirt. So, I use a soft camel-hair paint-brush to remove all of that loose dirt. The brush must be soft enough not to hurt the fragile armature wires. It also allows you to get in between the armature and the top plate.	I clean off all the old oil from the top of the top plate with a kleenex. The kleenex is thin enough to get between the gears and the top plate ridge wall. I then brush away lint with the camel-hair paint-brush mentioned earler.